Rabbits have been domesticated for about 2000 years. Due to their gentle nature, ease of care, and interesting personalities, they are becoming increasingly popular as pets.

Approximately 100 breeds of rabbits are recognized. These breeds include rabbits used for laboratories such as the New Zealand white, for meat such as the checkered giant, and for pelts such as the angora rabbits. Pet breeds include the lop- eared and dwarf rabbits, as well as many others -including all sizes, colors, and shapes. Rabbits have a life-span between 5 and 10 years.

Determining the sex of young rabbits is sometimes difficult. As they mature, anatomic differences become more obvious. Prominent dewlaps occur in mature female rabbits or does. Adult male rabbits or bucks have moveable testes. If these differences are not apparent, ask your veterinarian to determine your rabbit's sex. After reaching puberty around 4-6 months of age, does and bucks will often fight viciously with other members of the same sex, and spray urine to mark their territory. For these reasons, it is often best to have pet rabbits neutered or spayed. Female rabbits are also very susceptible to uterine cancer, which is prevented by the spay operation.

If you decide to try breeding your rabbits, place the doe rabbit into the buck's cage. Doing the opposite often leads to fighting. After breeding, bucks should be kept separate from does. Pregnancy lasts around 32 days. A nest box with shavings or hay should be provided and the doe left undisturbed.

After birth or kindling, baby rabbits only nurse once or twice daily. It is normal for mother rabbits to spend very little time with their babies. Bunnies eyes open at 10 days, and they are weaned between 3 and 6 weeks. Do not take baby bunnies away from their mothers; they are very difficult to raise.

HANDLING

The first thing one must learn is how to handle a pet rabbit. Unfortunately, rabbits can seriously injure their backs if not handled correctly. The rear legs must be controlled when picking up a rabbit. Handle the scruff with one hand and the rump with the other. Be careful- rabbits' claws are very sharp and can cause severe scratches. Your veterinarian can trim the claws and demonstrate how to do it properly.

CAGES

Rabbits can be housed indoors or outdoors. All cages require a hiding box or hutch for the rabbit to nest and retreat in. Outside cages should be elevated and shaded.

Rabbit cages can be made from high-quality welded wire. Because continued sitting on wire bottom cages can lead to foot injuries, a portion of the floor should be covered with plywood, plastic, bedding, or another flat surface. The surface or bedding will need to be replaced as it becomes soiled. Avoid wood cages because they are difficult to clean. Clean the cage weekly or more often if necessary. Rabbits can become overheated readily, so make certain there is adequate ventilation. Place a frozen 2-liter bottle in the cage every morning for cooling, when temperatures approach 100 F outside.

Rabbits can be litter trained. Because it is digestible, the preferred litter is recycled newspaper bedding. We do not recommend rabbits sharing litter boxes with cats. Rabbits will habitually return to the same area to urinate and defecate, and so are easily house trained. Beware, because rabbits free in the home can be destructive and seriously injured from chewing electrical cords. Allow rabbits to roam both inside and outside only while closely supervised.

FOOD

Water must be available for rabbits at all times, and can be provided either in a securely fastened bowl or in a drinker bottle. Water containers should be drained, cleaned with soap, and refilled daily. Rabbits without water dehydrate quickly, so be certain to have water available always.

Food should be supplied in heavy crocks or a hopper. Adult rabbits should be fed about 50% pellets, about 2 to 4 ounces, and 50% vegetables, hay, and grass clippings. Pellets need to be fresh, dry and the highest quality from a well respected company. Good quality grass, clover, and alfalfa hay supplies the roughage needed to keep rabbits healthy. Other food items (greens, spinach, carrots, apples, broccoli, and alfalfa sprouts) can be offered in small amounts daily. Young rabbits under 4 months should not be fed vegetables. Food variety helps adult rabbits receive the vitamins, fiber, and energy they need to avoid most medical problems.

It is normal for a rabbit to eat its own feces. This nutrient recycling behavior occurs mostly at night and is often unnoticed. Diarrhea in rabbits is a very serious concern. Your veterinarian can examine your rabbit's stool for parasites and microorganisms that cause diarrhea. A rabbit forming too few droppings and not eating may be very ill. Contact your veterinarian when your rabbit shows any signs of not eating or loose stool.

At times your rabbit's urine may turn red tinged or brown. This is sometimes a normal passage of pigment; however, persistent red or brown urine should be analyzed by a veterinarian to determine the cause.

HEALTH CONCERNS

Rabbit's teeth grow continually during their entire life. Normal rabbits wear their teeth down as they chew. However, some rabbits have trouble keeping their teeth from overgrowing which causes severe discomfort and sometimes starvation leading to death. Rabbits with abnormal teeth should not be bred because this trait can be passed on. These rabbits will need to have their teeth trimmed frequently or have them extracted. Slobbering and/or poor appetite are signs of overgrown teeth and should be treated by a veterinarian.

Because rabbits groom themselves frequently, they are susceptible to intestinal hairballs. Signs of hairballs include sudden lethargy, and a decrease in droppings. If a hairball is suspected, treatment should be started by a veterinarian right away. To avoid hairballs, brush your rabbit daily and feed 50% high fiber diets such as grass and hay. Remember that pet rabbits that refuse to eat need veterinary attention immediately.

Ear mites can burrow in rabbit's ears and cause crusty, painful ears. Your veterinarian can test for these, and give an injection to kill the mites in rabbits that have them. Your rabbit is also susceptible to fleas, lice and a fungus called ringworm. Minor skin lesions may indicate your rabbit has one of these problems, so call your veterinarian if you notice skin sores or hair loss.

"Snuffles" is a bacterial disease of rabbits that can lead to a serious Pneumonia. If you observe your rabbit breathing heavily, with a runny nose, and/or a draining eye, contact your veterinarian.   Watch for warning signs of sickness, such as

• slobbering
• anorexia
• diarrhea
• teeth grinding
• decreased droppings
• nose or eye drainage
• lumps and bumps
• wobbling
• weakness or refusal to move.

Rabbits are prey animals and often mask signs of disease. In order to catch problems early, observe your rabbit for changes in nose twitching, appetite and normal behavior. Act quickly and call your veterinarian if you suspect your rabbit is not well. Bring your rabbit in for an exam every year so that your veterinarian can get to know you and your rabbit and check for early signs of disease and parasites. Because certain antibiotics will cause incurable diarrhea in rabbits, never attempt to doctor your own rabbit without first consulting with a veterinarian