Choosing a Healthy Iguana
Most iguanas sold in pet stores are caught in the wild at a young age.  A healthy baby iguana should be a bright green color.  It should be alert and bright-eyed, watching for activity inside and around its cage.  Its belly should be rounded with no loose skin folds; the rear legs and tail base should be well muscled and not bony.  The skin should be smooth without lumps or dark patches of discoloration.   There should be no discharges from the eyes, mouth, vent or nose; however as iguanas have nasal slat glands which rid the body of excess salt, a dried, white discharge (salt) around the nostrils is normal.  It is abnormal for a baby iguana to be very passive and allow you to pick it up easily.

Restraint and Handling
Reptiles are not domestic animals and do not normally enjoy being held and petted.   Frequent handling however, is important for "taming" your iguana so it becomes accustomed to people.  Iguanas that are handled at an early age can remain very gentle even when full-grown.  The safest way to pick up an iguana is to grasp the shoulders and neck from above with one hand, using you other hand to hold under the pelvis and rear limbs.  When handling an adult iguana, wear long sleeves or keep a towel draped over your arm to avoid being scratched by the reptile's sharp claws.

Some iguanas may carry Salmonella.  In order to decrease the risk of possible transmission, always wash your hands after handling your pet or cleaning its cage.

Care in Captivity
Green iguanas are tropical animals.  A captive environment should be set up to best approximate the temperature, humidity, and ultraviolet light found in the reptile's natural settings.

Ultraviolet light
Access to ultraviolet light is one of the captive iguana's most important requirements.  Iguanas are known as "basking lizards" because they spend much of their time basking in the sun. When the sun's rays hit the iguana, Vitamin D is manufactured by the body.  This vitamin is essential for proper absorption and utilization of calcium by your iguana.  Calcium deficiency is the most common medical problem seen in captive iguanas.

The best source of ultraviolet light is the sun.  In northern climates, the sun is strong enough to be beneficial only in the summer.  It is not known how much sun is enough, but iguanas should receive a full day of sun at least two or three times a week.  This can be accomplished by putting the iguana's cage outdoors or on a sunny window ledge.  Since ultraviolet rays cannot penetrate glass or plastic, the iguana should be kept in a wire cage when "sunning".  Be sure that you provide a shaded area in the cage.

Currently no commercial artificial light duplicates the ultraviolet rays of the sun.  A close approximation however, can be provided by using two types of bulbs simultaneously.  A vita-Lite and a Black Light - BL.  You should be able to buy these bulbs at most lighting stores.  If your iguana is not receiving enough natural sunlight, you should provide it with 8 to 12 hours a day of light from these two bulbs.

Caging
Cages should be kept simple and easy to clean.  Iguanas should not be left loose in the house.  Not only are accidents and escapes common, but also a "roaming" iguana will not receive the necessary heat and ultraviolet light it requires.

Size
Healthy iguanas grow rapidly.  Glass aquaria can be used to house young iguanas.  Larger enclosures can be made from Plexiglas, wire, and wood.  There are several brands of commercial reptile fiberglass cages that are practical to set up and easy to clean.

Substrate
Line the bottom of the cage with newspaper, artificial grass, indoor-outdoor carpeting, or alfalfa pellets such as rabbit food.  It is best to have two pieces of artificial grass or carpeting so that one piece can be used inside the cage while the other is cleaned and dried.

Temperature
The body temperature of reptiles depends on the environmental temperature.   it is important to provide a temperature range within the cage so your iguana can select its preferred temperature.  Adequate warmth is important for proper digestion of food and for your iguana's health.

The heat source should be located outside the cage.  An incandescent bulb or red heat lamp can be hung over one end of the cage during the day.  A heating pad under the cage can be used during the day and also at night when the lights are out.  The cage should be slightly raised so the heating pad does not come into direct contact with it.  Ideal temperature ranges are between 85 to 96 degrees F.  during the day and no lower than 75 degrees F at night.   Provide a raised daytime basking area under the light were temperatures reach 95 to 100 degrees F.  It is important to measure temperatures in all parts of the cage and at different heights where climbing structures are located.

Lighting
Try to provide a regular light/dark cycle for your iguana.  Iguanas should be 12 to 14 hours of light and 10 to 12 hours of darkness per day.  Ultraviolet lights are essential.

Water
keep clean water in a bowl large enough for the iguana to soak in.  The cage can be misted several times per week to maintain proper humidity.  Soak your iguana in shallow water periodically.

Climbing and Hiding Structures
Provide wide natural tree branches and rocks in the cage for basking and climbing.  These can be arranged to make a sight barrier to the outside, providing the iguana with a sense of security.  Plastic plants are also useful for this purpose.  Avoid live plants in the cage since some are poisonous.

Sanitation
It is important to keep the iguana's cage clean to avoid infections of the skin and other organs that result from contact with urine and feces.  Simple cage setups are recommended because cage cleaning is easier and faster.  A once-a-week cleaning is generally recommended.  It is a good habit, however to remove any spoiled food or excrement from the cage as soon as it is noticed.  The cage can be washed with soap and water as necessary.  Periodic disinfection with 1 ounce of chlorine bleach diluted in 1 quart of water is advised.  Be sure to rinse the cage thoroughly and allow it to dry before putting the iguana back in.

Cagemates
Iguanas should be caged alone.  Putting more than one iguana in a cage often leads to fighting.  The presence of a second iguana even within view of another may result in excited reactions, decreased appetite, and thrashing around the cage.

Common Disease Problems
You should become familiar with your pet's normal behavior patterns so as to recognize any changes in activity or appetite.  Signs of illness include:

- lethargy
- decreased appetite
- leg weakness
- swelling of the legs or jaw
- lumps under the skin
- mucus or blood from the mouth or nose
- open-mouth breathing, and
- extrusion of the rectum or uterus from the vent.

If your iguana has any of these signs, immediately schedule an appointment with your veterinarian.

Metabolic Bone Disease
Metabolic bone disease is the most common disease affecting iguanas.  it results from a lack of sufficient dietary calcium, excessive phosphorous, and / or Vitamin D3 deficiency (in the form of sunlight or oral vitamins).  Iguanas develop osteoporosis and low blood calcium.  The physical signs of this disease are variable.   Baby iguanas may show weakness, inability to walk (particularly with the rear legs), and a soft jaw.  The jaw should normally be as firm as the human jaw.   Other young iguanas will develop swelling of the leg bones.  Loss of appetite, inability to defecate, real leg paralysis, and crooked spines are also seen.  Older iguanas usually show weakness, loss of appetite, and muscle twitching.

If you iguana is suffering from a bone disease, your veterinarian will suggest improving your pet's diet and increasing it's ultraviolet light exposure.  Hospitalization and injections are frequently required.

Abscesses
Iguanas can develop both internal and external abscesses.  External abscesses appear as swollen areas under the skin, usually occurring around the head and mouth or on the feet and toes.  Treatment by a veterinarian may include surgical drainage of the abscess pocket and the administration of injectable antibiotics.

Gangrene of Toes and Tail
Young iguanas often develop dry, black discoloration of one or more toes or the tip of the tail.  This can occur due to constriction by unshed skin.  Soak the affected area in warm water to loosen the skin and gently remove it with tweezers.   Several soakings may be necessary.  In other cases,  This condition occurs without an obvious cause in animals that appear to be otherwise healthy.  No treatment is necessary.

Sometimes iguanas with this condition are sick with calcium/Vitamin D3 deficiency or a systemic bacterial infection.  in these animals, the gangrenous areas will enlarge or spread to other toes.  Treatment includes injectable antibiotics, amputation of the affected tissue, improved sanitation, and correcting any nutritional problems.

Face Rubbing
A captive iguana may try to escape by constantly rubbing its nose against the sides or top of it's cage.  This behavior can often be reduced by providing a hiding area within the cage (artificial plant arrangement or cardboard box) to improve the reptile's sense of security.  Wounds of the nose may require veterinary attention.

Thermal Injuries
Burns can occur on the belly and underside of iguanas that lie on heating pads or hot rocks and are too weak to move off them.  Burns can also occur if iguanas come into contact with heat lamps that have been placed within the cage.  Treatment depends upon the severity of the burn.

Parasite Problems
The most common external parasites affecting iguanas are mites and ticks.   Ticks appear as dark spots between the scales.  Mites often cause itching and skin irritation; they usually occur on the head and where the legs meet the body.   Gastrointestinal parasites, including worms and protozoa, can cause diarrhea, weight loss, and malnutrition.  Suspected parasite infections should be checked and treated by a veterinarian The veterinarian will need a stool sample to check for gastrointestinal parasites.

Egg Binding
Iguana breeding season is from November through March.  Solitary captive female iguanas may ovulate and develop eggs, usually between January and April (sometimes later in northern climates), even in the absence of a mate (the eggs will be infertile).   These females have a swollen belly and a decreased appetite.  Egg binding occurs due to infection, nutritional deficiencies, and/or lack of sufficient dirt or sand to tunnel into for egg laying.  The diagnosis of egg binding is confirmed with x-rays.  Your veterinarian will suggest medical or surgical therapy, depending on clinical findings.

Broken Tail or Toe
A broken tail or toe should be checked by a veterinarian.  It may require no treatment, or it may require splinting or surgery depending on the severity.

Feeding Your Iguana
Of the plant material, 80% to 90% should be vegetables and 10% to 20% fruits.  Most iguanas relish fruits, but they are mineral poor and should be restricted.  Those foods listed in bold print have a positive calcium to phosphorus ration.  Vegetables will make up the bulk of the diet, and leafy greens with a dark green color will make up the majority of the vegetables.  Dark leafy greens that are high in calcium include:

collard, mustard and turnip tops or greens
alfalfa or timothy hay
alfalfa chow
Buffalo grass
broccoli
rabe
dandelions (flowers, stems, and leaves)

These should be the cornerstone of a healthy diet.   Other dark leafy greens include :

bok choy
Swiss chard
clover
kale
beet greens
escarole
parsley
spinach
watercress
savoy
kohlrabi

Other types of vegetables include alfalfa, radish or bean sprouts, asparagus, bell peppers, carrots, cucumbers, green beans, jicama, mushrooms, okra, peas and pea pods, prickly pear cactus pads (remove the spines,) shredded squashes (such as green or yellow zucchini, sweet potatoes, soybeans, and uncooked thawed frozen mixed vegetables.  Spinach and beets have calcium binders in them, so they should be fed in moderation.  Cabbage, broccoli, Brussels sprouts, bok choy, cauliflower, kale, and other members of the cabbage family might cause thyroid problems if fed exclusively but are nutritious in moderation.  Mulberry leaves are good if available.

Lettuces, including Romaine have little nutritional value.

The other 10% to 20% of the plant portion can be various fruits.  Figs are one of the few fruits rich in calcium.   Apples, apricots, dates, grapes, kiwis, melons, peaches, papayas, pears, plums, prunes, raisins, strawberries, and raspberries are all fine in small amounts.

Iguanas are fond of bananas; unfortunately they have very little calcium present.

To make a salad, wash, chop and mix two or more types of dark leafy greens, thawed frozen mixed vegetables, several types of fresh vegetables, and a fruit and protein source.  Salads can be stored for a week in the refrigerator.   For hatchlings, it is important to chop food into very small pieces. (food processors work well) and mix it thoroughly to prevent them from eating only their favorite items.  Each week slightly vary the diet by offering different food.   Finicky eaters can be encouraged to eat more by heavily mixing in preferred foods at first and then gradually decreasing them over a few weeks.  Persistence eventually pays off with novel items, but keep in mind iguanas also can have individual likes and dislikes.  Feed iguanas every day.

Supplements
If the iguana eats the variety of chows in the protein portion, it is getting plenty of multivitamins.  Multivitamin supplementation is required only if the iguana is not eating any of the chows, in which case a very light dusting of a good quality reptile or bird multivitamin can be used two to four times per month.

Every feeding, sprinkle a light dusting of calcium carbonate, lactate, gluconate, or bone meal on the salad.  Do not oversupplement with calcium!  A fine, barely perceptible dusting is all that is required.  Ideally with a balanced diet, little calcium supplementation is necessary.

Other
The web site www.iguanaden.com has additional information that may be of value to you .