Young hatchlings can be housed in a
20-30 gallon high aquarium. It should be planted with a lot
of vegetation for hiding places and branches to climb upon.
The main problem with basilisks is their tendency to run and jump
and bang their noses against the sides of the cage. Every
effort must be made to prevent them hitting the sides of the
cage. Planting the terrarium heavily will give them plenty of
places to hide and also prevent them from hitting the hard walls of
the cage. Anchoring cardboard boxes or other types of hide
shelters in different parts of the cage will enable the basilisks
to develop a favorite refuge they will feel safe in. Covering
the cage sides with pieces of burlap or carpeting, etc. will also
enable a frightened basilisk to hit the soft curtain, and then hide
behind it. A cage can be constructed out of the plastic mesh
outdoor fabrics and sunscreens. That way the flexible walls
will absorb the force of a frightened basilisk. Approaching
the cage slowly will give the basilisks a chance to calmly scamper
to their favorite hiding spot. The big advantage of captive
raised basilisks is that they have been acclimated to humans and to
cage parameters, and are much less apt to engage in the panicky
flight response of wild-caught basilisks. Prepare the cage
for new arrivals, so once they are released into the cage they can
acclimate to it without being disturbed. A cage the size of a
2 foot cube will hold several basilisks till they reach a sexable
size of 18”. Breeding adults can be kept in a cage of 2’ x
4’x 30” high successfully.
Green basilisk hatchlings are
not larger than a green anole and are rather delicate. They
should be provided with a cage with a lot of vegetation and kept at
a high humidity (70 – 95%). Spaghnum moss is a good
substrate, as it holds a lot of moisture and the hatchlings can
burrow into it for shelter. Provide a full spectrum
fluorescent light with branches arranged so the young can bask
within 6” of the lamp. A small spotlight can be added at one
end of the cage to provide a heated basking area. Basilisks
are creatures of the tropical rain forest, and do not require the
elevated basking temperatures of many other lizards; they prefer
more moderate temperatures. Providing a warm spot of 90-95
degrees for basking, and keeping most of the cage at 75-85 degrees
will let them select an appropriate temperature. Basilisks
are tolerant of cooler temperatures and will do well with a nightly
drop in temperature down to 65-70 degrees.
The hatchlings should be fed
small crickets, mealworms, waxworms, and other insects every day if
they are to make optimum growth. Young basilisks prefer to
eat a number of small food items, rather than a few large
ones. A calcium supplement containing vitamin D3 should be
lightly sprinkled on food items every other day or so to
promote healthy bone growth. If the lips start to separate,
or the hind legs to into spasm, or are held out stiffly, you need
to supply more calcium and D3.
A large shallow water pan or
better yet, a drip system is an essential part of a basilisk cage,
as they enjoy splashing in the water and often defecate in
it. A water pan should be placed where it can easily be
cleaned with a minimum of disturbance. They should be sprayed
with water every day, both on the cage and on their heads.
They often lap water as it is sprayed on them.
Once the hatchlings reach
about 10” they are much hardier, and can be moved to a larger
cage. They generally have learned their feeding routines and
can accept larger prey items. Such as half grown or newly molted
superworms. Fed once or twice a day they youngsters will make
good growth. At 12-14” the young will start development of
their head crests. The first indication of their sex occurs
at about 15-18”. Juvenile males will develop a double head
crest. At this size they can be put into breeding groups in
larger cages.
Once males start to develop
their body and tail crests, they will become very territorial, so
it is best to separate them at this age. Females will also
develop a hierarchy. Usually breeding groups are composed of
1 male and 2 or 3 females. Some breeders feel that breeding
activity is increased when males can view and display to each
other. Be alert for individuals that become intimidated, and
to not feed or bask as often as the others. Rearrange the
cage furnishings, or move intimidated animals to a different cage
to permit them access to food, water, and basking sites.
