Excerpted from:(Griswold WG. 2001. Captive Care and
Breeding of the Corn Snake, Elaphe guttata. JHMS 11(4):35-41) Association of
Reptilian and Amphibian Veterinarians.
With 50 or more different color and
pattern varieties currently bred in captivity, the corn snake is a
favorite among reptile hobbyists and herpetoculturists. Its
moderate size (30-48 in a maturity), gentle disposition, and ease
of care make the corn snake well-suited for the beginner and expert
alike. The corn snake E. g. guttata, and its western
supspecies, the Great Plains rat snake E. g. emoryi, occur
naturally throughout much of the eastern and Midwestern United
States.
Selection
Captive-bred corn snakes are
generally superior in health, appearance, and temperament than
their wild counterparts. When selecting a pet, it is best to
observe the snake from a distance before examining it more
closely. If possible, watch the snake eat; this is especially
important when purchasing a hatchling.
A healthy corn snake moves
deliberately when held. The eyes should be bright and clear,
and the tongue should flick actively. The skin should be
shiny and free of wounds, lumps, and scars. The muscular body
of the corn snake resembles a loaf of bread in cross-section.
The mouth should close firmly and lack evidence of wounds and
discharge. Listen carefully as the snake breathes to assess
for whistling, cracking, or gurgling, all signs of potential
respiratory problems.
Housing
Cages housing corn snakes must be
escape-proof and constructed with smooth waterproof sides and
bottoms. Aquariums with latching or sliding lids, as well as
many of the commercially available plastic cages, are
suitable. Hatchlings may be kept in 10 gallon tanks or large
plastic terraria. A single adult corn snake can be
comfortably housed in a 20 gallong long aquarium, although larger
cages are preferred. Corn snakes should be houssed singly
when not pared for breeding. Separation allows the keeper to
more closely monitor the behavior and health of each
specimen.
The cage floor should be covered
with a material that allows for burrowing and easy spot removal of
wastes. Newspaper, Astroturf, processed paper pulp, cypress
mulch, and aspen shavings can all be used with success. A
hide box or shelter is recommended; if newspaper or astroturf is
used as a substrate, a hide box must be provided. Inverted
plant saucers with entry holes, toilet paper tubes, hollow or
concave wood or bark slabs, and many other products manufactured
for this purpose can serve as hide boxes.
A broad bowl filled with clean,
fresh water should be provided. Because the occur in the
humid parts of the United States, corn snakes require more humidity
than is found in most homes for adequate hydration and normal
shedding. Hatchling corn snakes are especially sensitive to
dehydration.
Additional cage furnishings can
include stout branches, rocks, and sturdy plants. In addition
to increasing a cage’s aesthetic appeal, these items facilitate the
formation of gradients in heat, light, and humidity.
Naturalistic enclosures may also promote natural foraging,
thermo-regulating, and breeding behaviors.
Corn snakes fare well in a
temperature range of 22-32C (72-90F). One end of the cage
should be kept at the lower end of this range and the other should
provide a focal hot spot at or slightly above the 32 (90 f) .
Providing such a thermal gradient allows snakes to regulate their
body temperature precisely. Because wild corn snakes
thermo-regulate primarily by hiding beneath tree bark or surface
debris that is warmed by the sun, an overhead heat source is
preferred to under-cage heat sources.
While it does not appear that corn
snakes require ultraviolet B radiation for vitamin D3 synthesis,
exposure to ultraviolet A (UVA) radiation may be beneficial when
trying to stimulate social and reproductive behaviors.
Diet
Corn snakes are strict carnivores
that kill their prey by constriction prior to ingestion. The
diet of wild corn snakes includes lizards, tree frogs, rodents,
birds, and bird eggs. In captivity most hatchlings accept
live or thawed frozen nestling (pink) mice. Certain genetic
lines, including “bloodred” and “Miami” phases, are considered to
be finicky strains and may require special foods or feeding
techniques as hatchlings.
Captive adult corn snakes, with few
exceptions, readily accept pre-killed or thawed frozen mice and
rats of appropriate size. Feeding pre-killed prey is
preferred to prevent dangerous wounds to the snake. If live
prey is to be fed, it should never be left in the cage
unobserved. A snake that is not hungry can be killed by its
intended prey.
Frozen rodents should be sealed in a
plastic bag and thawed rapidly in hot water. Feed only high
quality rodents; malnourished prey animals are likely to pass
nutritional deficiencies along to the predator.
Supplementation with vitamins and minerals is generally unnecessary
when whole prey is being fed to carnivores.
Preventive Health Care and
Diseases
It is critial that you learn as much
as possible about any reptile pet before obtaining one.
Research the specific needs of corn snakes using periodicals,
books, on-line resources, and the advice of experienced reptile
breeders and veterinarians. A qualified reptile veterinarian
should perform a post-purchase health exam shortly after your new
pet arrives. This office visit should include a through
physical exam, a fecal analysis to check for internal parasites,
and counseling on proper husbandry and diet. Having your
veterinarian perform an annual physical examination throughout your
snake’s life can aid in the early detection and correction of both
husbandry and medical problems.
Careful attention to environmental
conditions such as temperature and humidity will help minimize the
risk of your pet becoming sick. Seek the assistance of a
veterinarian skilled in reptile care if any of the following
symptoms are observed:
- Refusal to feed for two or more
consecutive scheduled feedings
- Failure to produce stool with seven
to ten days after feeding
- Difficulty shedding, retained
spectacles ”eye caps”
- Abdominal swelling
- Regurgitation (vomiting)
- Diarrhea or foul-smelling stool;
straining to pass stool
- Open mouth breathing, difficulty
breathing
- Discharge from the eyes, nostrils,
or mouth
- Weakness, lethargy, depression, or
inactivity
- Lumps, bumps, scabs, or cuts on the
skin
William G. Griswold
DVM
