House soiling is the most common
behavior problem reported by cat owners. It includes urination
and/or defecation outside the litter box, as well as urine
spraying.
Why do cats
eliminate outside of the litter box?
One common misconception is that
cats soil in inappropriate places for revenge. It is tempting to
conclude, "He defecated on the living room carpet to punish me for
leaving him for the weekend." But this kind of calculation requires
sophisticated cognitive abilities that cats aren't believed to
possess. Furthermore, this conclusion assumes that cats view their
urine and feces as distasteful, when in fact they do not. It is
only we humans who view it that way.
Medical
Problems
So why do cats urinate or defecate on your bed or carpet? Medical
problems are one possibility. Inflammation of the urinary tract may
cause painful or frequent urination, inability to urinate, bloody
urine, and crying during urination. An affected cat is likely to
eliminate outside the litter box if he comes to associate the box
with painful urination, or if he has an increased urgency to
urinate. In addition, kidney, liver, and thyroid diseases often
lead to increased drinking and urination. Inflammation of the colon
or rectum, intestinal tract tumors, intestinal parasites, and other
gastrointestinal conditions may cause painful defecation, increased
frequency or urgency to defecate, and decreased control of
defecation. Age-related diseases that interfere with a cat's
mobility (for example, arthritis, nervous system disorders, or
muscular diseases), or with his cognitive functions can also
influence his ability to get to the litter box in time. In short,
any medical condition that interferes with a cat's normal
elimination behavior can lead to house soiling.
Litter Box Aversions
Behavioral problems, such as litter box aversions,
inappropriate site preferences, or urine spraying can also lead to
house soiling. An aversion implies that there is something about
the litter box that your cat finds unsavory. It could be the box,
the litter, the location of the box, or all three.
Something about the litter box bothers your
cat.
- The box contains harsh odors. The
litter box may have an offensive odor if you clean it with harsh
chemicals. Or, if you don't clean it enough, the box may smell
strongly of ammonia (a normal byproduct of urine). In either case,
covered litter boxes hold in and amplify such odors.
- The sides of the box are too high.
Cats with painful legs, sore joints, or other mobility problems may
have trouble getting into a box with high sides. Kittens have
similar problems.
Something
about the litter bothers your cat.
- The litter is dirty. Cats usually
prefer clean litter.
- The texture of the litter is
distasteful. Your cat may have a preference for finer-textured
clumping litter over coarser non-clumping litter—or vice versa.
- The scent of the litter is
unpleasant. Most cats prefer non-scented litter.
The
location of the litter box bothers your cat.
- The box is in an unpleasant area.
Avoid placing the litter box in a high-traffic, noisy, dark, or
dank area.
- Your cat is afraid to use the box.
If another cat, dog, or human terrorizes your cat when she's in the
box, or ambushes her as she exits, she may avoid the box
altogether.
Cats with aversions usually
eliminate on varying surfaces. You may find puddles of urine and/or
feces on either soft surfaces like carpets, beds, or clothing, or
on hard, shiny surfaces like tile floors or bathtubs. Depending on
the severity of your cat's aversion, he may continue to use the
litter box, but only inconsistently.
Inappropriate Site Preferences
Alternatively, your cat may develop
a preference for eliminating in a spot other than the box.
Preferences can be categorized as follows:
- Another surface is more desirable
for elimination. Cats that prefer certain surfaces usually stick
with that choice. For example, a cat that finds it more pleasing to
eliminate on soft surfaces like clothing or carpets would be
unlikely to use tile floors.
- Another location is more desirable
for elimination. This usually results from an aversion to the
current box location.
As with aversions, cats with
preferences for certain surfaces or locations may continue to use
the litter box inconsistently. One cause for house soiling may lead
to another. For example, a cat with a urinary tract disorder that
can't make it to the litter box in time will urinate wherever she
is. She may then develop a preference for the new site and continue
to eliminate there.
Urine
Spraying
When your cat rubs against your leg
with his face, or scratches his scratching post, he is also
depositing his scent from the glands in his cheeks and paws.
Another equally normal but less pleasant marking behavior is urine
spraying--the deposition of small amounts of urine around a given
area. Spraying announces a cat's presence, establishes or maintains
territorial boundaries, and advertises sexual availability.
Cats usually spray on vertical
surfaces, like the backs of chairs, or walls. They don't squat to
spray (as they do to urinate), but the tail lifts and quivers, and
small puddles of urine are left in several consistent locations.
Cats that spray are usually unneutered males and, to a lesser
extent, unspayed females, but 10% of neutered males and 5% of
neutered females also spray. In households with more than seven
cats, the likelihood of spraying is high.
Cats may spray when they perceive a
threat to their territory, such as when a new cat enters the home,
or when outside cats are nearby. New furniture and carpet smells
can prompt spraying as well. Cats may also spray out of frustration
resulting from factors—like restrictive diets, or insufficient
playtime—often wrongly perceived by humans as revenge.
My cat is
not using the litter box reliably. What should I
do?
First, address the problem promptly.
The longer the behavior persists, the more likely it is to become
habit. If you have more than one cat, you may need to separate them
until you can identify the responsible party. Alternatively, your
veterinarian can provide you with a special non-toxic stain given
by mouth that will show up in the urine. In cases of defecation
outside the box, you can feed one cat small pieces (about twice the
size of a sesame seed) of a brightly colored non-toxic child's
crayon that will show up in the feces. If you find urine puddles in
the house, it is important to distinguish between spraying and
other forms of house soiling. Watch your cat for signs of
spraying—or set up a video camera when you're not around.
Once you have identified the
house-soiling cat, it is wise to take him to your veterinarian for
a thorough physical examination and appropriate diagnostic tests to
see if there are underlying medical problems. Cats with medical
conditions may not always act sick. Once medical causes have been
ruled out, your detective work begins. Here are some patterns that
may point to a cause:
- Is there one type of surface upon
which your cat eliminates? If so, she may have a preference for
certain surfaces, and you can modify your litter to match it. If
she likes soft surfaces like carpeting, buy a softer, finer litter,
and put a carpet remnant in her box. If she has a penchant for
smooth, shiny surfaces, consider putting tiles in her box, covered
with only a small amount of litter. Over time more litter can be
added.
- Is there a certain location she
prefers? She may have developed a preference for a new area because
something bothered her about the old area. Try placing a litter box
in her "preferred" location. Once she reliably uses it, gradually
move the box just a few inches a day back to the desired location.
Stop moving the box if she stops using it; instead simply move it
back to the spot where she last reliably used it, then gradually
begin moving it again.
- Is yours a multi-pet household
where another animal terrorizes your cat while she's in the litter
box or as she exits? If so, the cat may be afraid to use the box.
If you currently use a covered box, replace it with one that gives
her a 360-degree view. This will give her more confidence while
she's in the box and make her less prone to ambush. Also, position
the box so that she has more than one way out (i.e. don't have the
box surrounded on three sides). Finally, place multiple boxes in
multiple locations to give your cat more options.
- When your cat uses the box, does he
cry, refuse to bury his waste, perch on the edge of the box without
touching the litter, or eliminate right near the box?
- If so, first be sure the box is
clean. Some cats refuse to use a box containing any urine or feces
whatsoever; meticulous litter box cleanliness is necessary for
these individuals. (See "Keeping the Litter Box Clean.")
- Your cat may dislike the litter you
use, especially if you've recently and suddenly changed brands. If
you must switch brands, do so gradually, adding more of the new
litter to the old with each cleaning. Most cats prefer their litter
unscented, and an inch or two deep.
The box itself may be the offender.
Larger cats need bigger boxes, and kittens and elderly cats need
boxes with low sides. Although humans like covered boxes for
reducing odor and stray litter, from your cat's point of view,
covers hold odors in, and restrict his view of the area. You may
need to purchase several types of boxes and several types of litter
to determine which combination your cat likes best. Finally,
provide as many boxes as there are cats in the house—plus one. For
example, if you have two cats, there should be three litter boxes.
This decreases competition and gives each cat a box of his or her
own.
How can I stop my cat from
spraying?
Because spraying is different than
other types of house soiling, different tactics are necessary to
manage it. First, because there are often hormonal components to
spraying, any intact animal should be neutered or spayed. Next,
identify the stimuli that cause your cat to spray. If outside cats
are responsible, motion detectors that trigger sprinklers can be
used to deter them from coming onto your property. Additionally,
you can discourage your cat from looking outside by closing blinds
or shades, or by placing double-sided tape or electronic mats that
deliver mild shocks onto your windowsills.
Address possible sources of
frustration that may be causing your cat to spray. For example,
introduce a new diet gradually, or discontinue it until the
spraying is under control. Increasing the amount of playtime for an
under-stimulated cat may also help ease frustration.
Spraying can also result from
territorial disputes between cats in the same household. They may
need to be separated and reintroduced slowly, using food treats to
reward and encourage peaceful behavior.
Applying odor neutralizers anywhere
your cat has sprayed may prevent him from spraying there again.
Another useful commercial product is Feliway®, a synthetic
pheromone that, when applied to household surfaces, mimics the
scent of cat cheek gland secretions. Many cats will not spray on
areas that have this scent. (See the end of this brochure for
information on where to purchase the above-mentioned
products.)
Will
medications stop my cat from house soiling?
Spraying is more responsive to
anti-anxiety drugs than other types of house soiling. However,
medication is only part of the solution, and must be used in
conjunction with environmental changes. Any medication can have
potentially damaging and/or unwanted side effects, and not all cats
are good candidates. Cats placed on long-term medication must be
monitored closely by a veterinarian.
What can I
use to clean my cat-soiled carpet, couch, and other household
items?
Cats will re-soil and spray areas
previously impregnated with their scent. Therefore, cleaning up
your cat-soiled belongings is important, not only to undo the
damage, but to break the cycle of elimination. Because it is much
easier to eliminate odors in recently-soiled areas, clean them as
soon as possible. A cat's sense of smell is far keener than ours;
therefore odors must be neutralized, not just deodorized. However,
avoid cleaning products containing ammonia or vinegar—they smell
like urine and can be irritating.
What other
methods should I consider?
Sheets of plastic, newspaper, or
sandpaper, electronic mats that deliver harmless, mild shocks, or a
carpet runner with the nubs facing up may all discourage your cat
from entering a soil-prone area.
Try changing the significance of a soiled area. Cats prefer to eat
and eliminate in separate areas, so try placing food bowls and
treats in previously soiled areas. Playing with your cat in that
space and leaving toys there may also be helpful.
Try denying your cat access to a given area by closing doors, or
by covering the area with furniture or plants. Baby gates will not
keep a cat out of a room.
Catch him in the act. A bell on a breakaway collar tells you his
whereabouts. If you can catch him within the first seconds of his
elimination routine, startle him with a water gun or shake a jar of
pennies, so that he associates being startled with those actions.
It is important that you startle rather than scare him; fear will
only worsen the problem. Moreover, if you catch him after he's
eliminated, your window of opportunity is gone—you must catch him
just as he's about to eliminate.
Never hit, kick, or scream at a cat. Not only does this create
more anxiety, which may contribute to house soiling behavior, but
also such tactics provide no link between the "crime" and the
punishment. Some owners resort to rubbing their cat's face in their
excrement to "teach the cat a lesson." This is completely
ineffective, first because cats do not view their urine and feces
as distasteful, and second, because even moments later, cats cannot
make the connection between the mess on the bed and this kind of
punishment.
Conclusion
A common and frustrating problem,
inappropriate elimination can be difficult to control. A full
resolution depends on early intervention, followed by detective
work to determine the cause of the behavior, and time and effort on
your part to solve the problem. In partnership with veterinarians,
both cats and the people who love them can live in harmony and good
health.
Helpful hints for preventing litter
box problems
1. Choosing an appropriate litter
and box
Most cats prefer unscented,
finer-textured litter, at a depth of one to two inches.
Young kittens, elderly cats, and
cats with mobility problems need boxes with low sides.
Overweight and large cats need
bigger boxes.
Most cats prefer an uncovered box
that lets odors escape and allows a 360-degree view of their
surroundings.
Have as many litter boxes as cats in
the house-plus one.
2. Choosing a good litter box
location
Most cats prefer a location that is
quiet, private, separate from their feeding area, and easily
accessible 24 hours a day.
Do not locate the litter box up or
down stairs if your cat has trouble climbing.
Place multiple boxes in different
areas of the house.
3. Keeping the box clean
If you use clumping litter, remove
feces and clumps daily and add clean litter as needed.
A liner may help keep the box
cleaner, but many cats don't like them.
To clean the box, scrub it with a
gentle detergent, dry it, and refill with clean litter. Litter
should be changed often enough so that it looks and smells dry and
clean. The more cats using the box, the more often this will need
to be done.
Replace old boxes that smell or are
cracked.
Suggested cleaning products and
resources
Cleaners/Deodorizers Pheromone
Spray
Anti-Icky-Poo (AIP)
Bug-A-Boo Chemicals
11924 NE Sumner
Portland, OR 97220
Feliway®
Abbott Laboratories
1401 North Sheridan Road
North Chicago, IL 60064
Nature's Miracle
Pets 'N People Inc.
27520 Hawthorne Boulevard, Suite 125
Rolling Hills Estates, CA 90274
(Also available at most major pet stores)
Electronic Mats
Scatmat/Scarecrow Motion Activated Sprinklers
Contech Electronics, Inc.
P.O. Box 115
Saanichton, British Columbia
Canada V8M 2C3
Outright Stain and Odor Removal Products
The Bramton Company
P.O. Box 655450
Dallas, TX 75265-5450
PetMat
Radio Systems Corporation
5008 National Drive
Knoxville, TN 37914
Oxyfresh Pet Deodorizer
Oxyfresh USA, Inc.
P.O. Box 3723
Spokane, WA 99220
Motion Detectors
Scarecrow
The Dog's Outfitter
1 Maplewood Drive
Hazleton, PA 18201
(Motion detector that turns on a
sprinkler when activated)
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Prepared by the American Association of Feline Practitioners and
the Cornell Feline Health Center, Cornell University, College of
Veterinary Medicine, Ithaca, New York 14853-6401.
