Bearded dragons are omnivorous, and
feed on a variety of insects, small animals, flowers, greenery, and
fruits. In lean times, they have the ability to go dormant
and live off the fat of their bodies. Captive bearded dragons
will sometimes hide in a sheltered spot in the cage and go dormant
for a few weeks, then appear one day and start eating and behaving
quite normally again.
Female bearded dragons lay
clutches of 15-25 eggs. Hatchlings are 3.5 to 4.5 inches
long. Hatchlings grow quickly and are usually 5” by the end
of their first month. Most hatchling mortality occurs during
this first month. By the end of the second month most
hatchlings are 6” and are more robust and hardier. Juveniles
continue to grow rapidly and can reach adult size within a
year. Adults can range in size from 16 – 24” Color also
varies from a uniform tan to chocolate brown, with a variety of
chevron patterns down the back, and different hues on the head,
throat, back, and tail. As bearded dragons approach adult
size, their sexual differences become more obvious, with the males
developing much broader heads and a larger balck beard. Males
also have a rapid head bobbing display, while females, in response
to the male, will return a series of slower head bobs. Both
sexes engage in stereotyped arm waving behavior to appease more
dominant animals and this would also be characteristic of female
behavior towards a dominant male.
Young hatchlings can be housed
in a 10 gallon aquarium with a 30-60 watt spotlight at one end
above a basking rock. The wattage of the spotlight needs to
be adjusted to allow the dragons to reach a body temperature of 100
degrees after basking under the light for an hour. Dragons
need to get very warm to digest their food. Arrange the rocks
and branches to provide several basking levels. Watch the
hatchlings so you can arrange basking areas that they like to
use. Make sure one end of the cage stays cool. Arrange
branches and shelters so the baby can choose from a range of
temperatures and heights to maintain their optimum body
temperature. Do not use electric element embedded “hot rocks”
with hatchlings. Hotspots in the heating element can quickly
and fatally burn a small bearded dragon. Basking under a
light is a more natural way for them to receive their heat. A
full spectrum, ultraviolet A emitting fluorescent lamp should be
suspended over the cage, and perches arranged so lizards can bask
within 6 inches of the bulb. That way they can absorb the
UV-A and UV-B to manufacture their vitamin D3 for bone
formation. In larger cages a combination of the full spectrum
light and a black light will give dragons a higher exposure to the
ultraviolet wavelengths. The substrate can be washed
sand or newspaper, etc.
Dragons should be sprayed with water
every day, both on the cage and on their heads. They often
lap water as it is sprayed on them. Keep a fine mist of spray
directed on their heads as long as they keep lapping. This
simulates the natural way bearded dragons get water of licking up
drops of dew they find on plants in the morning. Dragons
require a dry cage, but need to get a lot of water from daily
sprayings and from the fresh vegetables in their diet. Don’t
expect bearded dragons to drink from a water dish, but some
may learn to drink that way. Dragons like to run through very
shallow pans of water in their cage. This water must be kept
clean. Polluted water can be a source of parasite and
diseases.
Hatchlings should be fed small
crickets, mealworms, waxworms and other insects, every day for
optimum growth. Choose feeder insects that are about 1/3 the
size of the dragons heads. Thin leaves of red tip lettuce and other
greens can be finely shredded and fed to the hatchlings, or pieces
of leaf can be propped up so the lizards can take bites from
them.
A daily supplement containing
vitamin D3, such as Rep-Cal should be lightly sprinkled on food
items every other day or so to promote healthy bone growth.
If your bearded dragons lips start to separate, or the hind legs go
into spasm, or are held out stiffly, you need to supply more
calcium and D3.
Caution should be exercised
when using multi-vitamin supplements, as bearded dragons are very
susceptible to vitamin A toxicity. Vitamin A overdose is
indicated by a swelling of the throat, and proceeding to a bloating
of the body and lethargy. Multivitamins should be given a
small dose only twice a month to avoid this problem.
If dragons get sick, and
exhibit erratic behavior and can’t eat or drink on their own, you
need to assist-feed them. Prepare a solution of chicken baby
food, water, Rep-Cal, and a tiny bit of multivitamin. This
should be mixed to a gruel-like consistency. Put a drop on
the dragons snout with an eyedropper. The dragon will shortly
drink in this drop, and once the drinking reflex begins, you can
apply the eyedropper to the snout and allow the dragon to drink its
full. Stop to allow the dragon to breathe, then see if it
will take more. You may have to continue this for several
days. Don’t wait for the dragon to get weak and
dehydrated. Treat it immediately and its chance for recovery
is better. Keep it separated from cage mates till it again
eats well on its own.
As hatchlings grow, the larger
ones should be moved to a different cage, or they will dominate and
stress out their smaller siblings. As their size increases,
they can take larger food items, and more vegetable matter.
Greens are very good for them. Chinese cabbages and cooked
chopped vegetable mixes of green beans carrots corn, peas, and
broccoli are a good food. Dragons like to chew on edible
potted plants that are placed in their cage. Purslane and
hibiscus are very good due to the juicy leaf. These plants
also tolerate the high temperatures in a bearded dragon cage.
Sunflower and bean sprouts are very good for them and with a little
planning you can provide a continuous supply of these.
As the dragons grow, they will
establish a hierarchy. Aggressive and appeasement displays
are a part of their normal social interaction. Dominant males tend
to take the highest perch, so provide separage basking sites for
sub-dominant animals. Females will establish a hierarchy of
their own. It is normal bearded dragon behavior for males to
chase females about the cage and to challenge each other, sometimes
biting. Be alert for individuals that become intimidated, and
do not feed or bask as often as the other. Rearrange the cage
furnishings, or move intimidated animals to a different cage to
permit them to access food, water, and basking sites.
